A dead pool light usually means one of two jobs: swapping the bulb inside your existing fixture, or replacing the whole fixture — light, lens, and cord — in the same wall niche. Add in the jump from old incandescent bulbs to LED, and the price can range from under $100 to well over $1,500. Enter your pool type, light type, and number of lights below for an estimate.
Pool Light Replacement Cost Calculator
Estimate the cost to replace your pool light by pool type, light type, and who does the work.
A bulb swap reuses your existing housing. A full fixture replaces the light, lens, and cord in the same wall niche.
Pool lights sit underwater on line voltage. Only DIY if you're comfortable with electrical work and your local code allows it — always kill the breaker first.
$ – $
Estimated total for lights
Estimated LED Energy Savings
~$ / year
Based on a 400W incandescent vs. 45W LED, a 180-night swim season, and $0.17/kWh.
Doing it yourself?
Compare replacement pool lights and LED retrofit bulbs — match your fixture's brand and voltage.
Shop Pool Lights → Get Quotes from Local Pool Pros →Want to see what your pool costs to run each month? Try our Monthly Pool Running Cost Calculator.
How Much Does Pool Light Replacement Cost?
For most inground pools, replacing a single light professionally runs anywhere from about $115–$300 for a simple bulb swap up to $700–$1,600 for a new color-changing LED fixture. Above-ground pool lights are far cheaper — usually $40–$250 for the unit, and many owners install them themselves.
- Incandescent / halogen bulb swap: $15–$50 for the bulb, $115–$300 installed.
- LED retrofit bulb (fits your existing fixture): $80–$400 for the bulb, $180–$650 installed.
- Full white LED fixture: $275–$550 for the fixture, $525–$1,150 installed.
- Full color-changing LED fixture: $450–$1,000 for the fixture, $700–$1,600 installed.
Bulb Swap vs. Full Fixture Replacement
Bulb or LED Retrofit
If the fixture housing, lens gasket, and cord are still in good shape, you can often just replace the bulb — or drop an LED retrofit bulb into the old incandescent housing. It is the cheapest route and a quick job for a pool tech, but it leaves you with an aging fixture and gasket that may start leaking sooner rather than later.
Entire Fixture
Replacing the whole fixture means pulling the old light out of the niche, feeding the old cord back to the junction box, and pulling the new cord through the conduit. It costs more, but you get a new lens, gasket, and cord, a warranty on the whole unit, and you can switch to a modern LED designed for that niche size. If your light is more than 10–15 years old, has water inside the lens, or keeps tripping the breaker, a full fixture is usually the better buy.
Incandescent vs. LED Pool Lights
Old incandescent and halogen pool lights typically draw 300–500 watts and last a season or two. LED pool lights draw roughly 30–60 watts, can last 10+ years, and run noticeably cooler. That efficiency adds up: switching a single 400W light to LED and running it three hours a night through the swim season saves roughly $30–$40 a year in electricity, and you will rarely be fishing the light out of the wall to replace a bulb again.
Color-changing LEDs cost more up front but add light shows and color modes that are often controlled from your pool automation system or a phone app. If you have an automation panel, make sure the light you choose is compatible with it before buying.
Why Add-Ons Change the Price
- New low-voltage transformer — many LED lights run on 12 volts. If your old light ran on 120V, you may need a transformer added at the equipment pad.
- GFCI protection — pool lights must be on GFCI protection. Older pools that lack it, or have a failing GFCI breaker, will need it added or replaced as part of the job.
- Short cord or stuck conduit — a pool light normally has enough cord coiled behind it to reach the deck so it can be serviced without draining. If someone cut that slack short, or the conduit is blocked, the pool may need to be partially drained or a diver brought in.
Our calculator assumes your light niche, conduit, and junction box are usable. Adding a light where none exists (cutting in a new niche and running conduit) is a much larger project and is not included here.
Can You Replace a Pool Light Yourself?
Handy owners do replace their own pool lights, especially bulb swaps on fixtures that come up to the deck easily. But pool lights combine water and line voltage, so the stakes are high: always turn off the breaker and verify power is off before touching the fixture, replace the lens gasket every time it is opened, and test the GFCI afterward. Many local codes require a licensed electrician for any new wiring, transformer, or GFCI work. If you are unsure, hire a pro — the labor savings are not worth the risk.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do pool lights last?
Incandescent and halogen pool bulbs often last only 1–3 seasons. LED pool lights are commonly rated for 10–15 years of normal use, though the lens gasket should be checked any time the fixture is opened.
Do I need to drain the pool to replace the light?
Usually not. Most inground fixtures have extra cord coiled behind them so the light can be pulled up onto the deck while the pool stays full. Draining or a diver is only needed when the cord is too short or the fixture is stuck.
Why does my pool light keep tripping the breaker?
The most common cause is water getting into the fixture through a worn lens gasket, or a damaged cord. Do not keep resetting it — have the fixture inspected, because a failing pool light is a shock hazard.
Can I put an LED bulb in my old incandescent pool light?
Often yes. LED retrofit bulbs are made to fit common incandescent fixtures. Check that the bulb matches your fixture brand, voltage (12V or 120V), and base type before buying.